I love this location for family shoots. The she-oaks provide a wonderful natural frame to the portraits, as well as providing shade.
Perth newborn photographer | Perth baby photography
We had beautiful balmy Perth autumn weather for this shoot, with just one problem – the wind was up! So we only did a few setups of this sweet little girl as we didn’t want sand to blow on her. We wrapped her and had mum hold her for the rest of the shoot, she was so warm and cosy she slept the whole time.
Meet Bonnie on day 10.
I like to make my own photography props as well as buy ones handcrafted by some clever creators. Recently i finished off a matching set, a bonnet and pants sized for a newborn, although they’ve got so much stretch they can just fit on my 3 1/2 month old model! I’d say they’d fit up to a 2 month old comfortably. It’s done in single crochet – i couldn’t find any free patterns easily on the web (everything i could find was double crochet) so made my own pattern, and i’ve written it down for you below. You are welcome to make and sell products from this free pattern, or use them in your own photography, but please credit me by linking back to this post.
8 ply wool (DK weight) in main and contrasting colours
7mm crochet hook
Gauge: a 4×4″ square of my crocheting yields 13 stitches and 15 rows. Please adjust accordingly if your measurements are different.
Round 1: Magic circle, make 10 sc, join in first sc
Round 2: ch1, 2sc in each stitch, join (20)
Round 3: ch1, * sc in first stitch, 2sc in next stitch, repeat from *, join (30)
Rounds 4-5: ch1, sc in each stitch, join (30)
Round 6: ch1, *sc in next 2 stitches, 2sc in third stitch, repeat from *, join (40)
Round 7: ch1, sc in each stitch, join (40)
Bonnet is now worked back and forth in rows.
Row 1: ch1, sc in same stitch, sc in next 36 stitches, 2sc in next stitch, turn. (40)
Rows 2-9: ch1, sc in each stitch, turn. Work should measure 3.75″ (9.5cm) deep.
Row 10: ch1, sc in each stitch, do not turn. Sc around the base of the bonnet until you reach the start of row 10.
Row 11: to make the band, join contrasting colour and finish off main colour. Ch3, *fpdc around first stitch of row 10, bpdc around second stitch, repeat from *, turn.
Row 12: ch3, *fpdc around first stitch of row 10, bpdc around second stitch, repeat from *. Sc down the edge of the last dc until you reach the main colour, then fasten off.
Row 13: On the other side of the bonnet, join contrasting colour to the main colour at the base of the ch3 and sc up the ch3 and round the edge of the band to finish. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Cut a 5.75m length of the contrasting colour, and twist into a rope. Thread through the middle of each fpdc in the band and pull through to even out the ends.
These reach to halfway down a newborn’s calf i.e. 3/4 length pants. If you want full length, just add another 4 rows after row 32.
Row 1: Start with contrasting colour. Make 42 foundation double crochet stitches and join. Foundation chain double crochet gives more stretch than chaining.
Rows 2-3: ch3, * fpdc around the first dc, bpdc around the next dc, repeat from *, join.
Row 4: ch1, sc in each stitch, join.
Row 5: change to main colour and end off contrasting colour. Ch1, sc in each stitch, join.
Rows 6-20: ch1, sc in each stitch, join. Rise should measure around 6″ (15cm).
Row 21: start the leg holes. Ch1, sc in the next 21 stitches, skip all the rest and join to the top of ch1.
Row 22-32: ch1, sc in each stitch around, join. Leg should measure around 3.75″ (9.5cm) long.
Row 33: change to contrasting colour and end off main colour. Ch1, sc in each stitch around, join.
Rows 34-35: ch3, * fpdc around the first stitch, bpdc around the next stitch, repeat from *, join.
Row 36: ch1, sc in each stitch around, join and finish off, weaving in ends.
For second leg: Join main colour to an unworked stitch near the centre back of round 20. Repeat instructions from round 21 onwards to create second leg. The legs should be around 5 inches (12.5cm) long.
Cut a 7m length from your contrasting colour and twist into a rope. Thread through the middle of each fpdc in the waistband and pull through to even out the ends.
Rope: (like the link, but without cutting the wool). Tie the two ends of your length of wool together and place the knot under something that will hold it (I used a bar stool). The other end will be a loop; place a pencil or similar item in the loop, take up the slack of the wool and start twisting. Twist until you think it’s ready, then twist some more. If you release the slack a little and it’s ready, the rope should double back on itself. I keep twisting until the rope starts to double back by itself without any slack. Take the middle of the rope with one hand and place the ends together (with one end still held under your heavy object), then let go of the middle, holding the other ends together. If it’s twisted enough, it will twist back the other way, forming a rope. Take the end out from under the chair and tie a knot in the finished rope, and trim ends. The other end can be left as is, or knotted and trimmed AFTER you’ve threaded it.
I made these patterns myself, but couldn’t have done it as easily without the three sites below.
Thanks to Mamma That Makes for the trousers band and the sizing hints.